Living history, down the street and around the corner



The city itself is fascinating. Above is the Chamber of Commerce view of the Onyar River which flows lazily through town on its way to the Mediterranean some 40 miles away. Behind that colorful facade along the right side of the photo is the Old Town, where we will spend most days and all of our nights. The bright red steel bridge spanning the lazy stream was designed by the great Gustav Eiffel, not long before his Paris tower got underway.


The city's cathedral seems to hold its age well, having sat on this very spot for over 1,000 years. Parts of several episodes of a certain bloody Netflix series on Europe's religious wars were filmed inside this grand old structure, and in the general neighborhood as well. It all lends itself to a visual medieval mythos.

I do think it's surprising that the church's interior looks as gothic as it does — probably a result of one of the many facelifts it has undergone through the centuries.


Apparently this particular neighborhood in this particular town has a firm position today on the must-see list of Jews of all ages who pursue the history of that peoples in Europe, during the middle ages. El call jueu is not exactly the area where our apartment is situated, but is near enough that we'll be winding through these lanes and alleys again and again on the way to the market, to the river, to sidewalk cafes.


They're Going Again!